Laird Hamilton, big-wave surfer extraordinaire, said his love for the sport started when he was young, learning to surf on his stepfather’s back. Hamilton sat down with Fusion’s Pedro Andrade and says riding one of the big waves is like riding on the back of T-Rex. “You feel insignificant. It’s a reminder of how little you are.”
The perception that guys in his line of work are fearless is a silly concept to Laird who says, “There’s no such thing as no fear. It’s nonsense. What I do with fear versus what somebody else does with fear are two different things. I get smarter and stronger when I’m scared.”
Despite being a legend in the surfing world, Laird maintains a humble attitude and claims that he never imagined that he would be in the place that he is in today.